For local outdoorsmen who like to catch monster trout on the Big Horn Mountains, there are realistically only two options I know of: the North Tongue River near Bear Lodge and Devil’s Canyon.  Either option features medium-sized creeks, with world class scenery, abundant wildlife, and plentiful opportunities to catch 20+” wild trout.

The North Tongue runs adjacent to Highway 14-A for about five miles just west of Burgess Junction, where 14-A, coming from Lovell, meets Highway 14 and runs to either Sheridan or down Shell Canyon to Greybull.  Along the highway, from the confluence of Hideout Creek and the North Tongue, east to Bull Creek, the Wyoming Game and Fish Department has designated the stream as “catch and release” for cutthroat trout and restricted the area to artificial flies and lures only.

Those regulations, combined, have allowed the cutts in that section to thrive in the long, deep holes of the willow-laden North Tongue, often reaching sizes of 18” or more.  The highway access means these trout have seen their share of fishermen, so great care and perfect presentation is often needed to hook a monster.  Anglers must also be on the lookout for the many moose who bed down in the cool and towering brush along the stream.  It is not uncommon to round a bend in the stream and come face to face with Momma Moose toting Junior by her side.  Such an encounter has been known to require a change of underpants for the more jumpy fishermen on the stream.

The North Tongue is justly considered one of the jewels of the Big Horn Range.  The only drawback to planning a trip to the stream is the chance you may run into other anglers fishing ahead of you.  Not big enough for combat angling, your best option those mornings when you pushed snooze one too many times and got to the creek after the more ambitious anglers, is to give them room and search for another stretch of creek they haven’t been to.  Be neighborly and don’t crowd someone else.

This isn’t Utah after all!

Devil’s Canyon

For those searching to truly get away from it all, Devil’s Canyon may be the ticket for you.  If the North Tongue is one of the jewels of the Big Horns, Devil’s Canyon is the buried treasure hidden amid the rugged foothills of the western slopes of the range.  To all but a few experienced and adventurous locals, the various trails into the canyon are carefully masked by desert junipers, scrub cedar, and the bountiful rabbit brush infesting the area.

There is a road of sorts into the canyon, but access is controlled by a ranch family who restrict most from passing through.  For those without a key, there are only two ways in: by boat or shoe leather.  Launching from nearby Horseshoe Bend Marina outside Lovell, WY, boaters can access the entrance to Devil’s Canyon by traveling up Big Horn Canyon.

Upon reaching Devil’s Canyon, one must continue by boat up the canyon until you reach the stream bed.  There are game trails along the side hills of the canyon, but the tangled brush and vegetation make walking to and from the creek difficult.  Most visitors traverse the canyon by walking along and through the stream.

If access to a boat is not possible, there are a number of trails that drop into the canyon and allow access by foot.  These trails are not for the faint of heart, with names such as Spider Leg, Hole in the Wall, and Burnt Trail, each trip into the canyon is an adventure with every possibility for mishap.  At least two trails require visitors to lower themselves down in certain spots using lengths of cords, cables, or ropes that previous visitors have generously installed.  Whether you trust their knot tying skills and the condition of the ropes, is up to you.  Plan at least an hour hike to arrive stream side, and that’s after the long, rough drive to the trailhead via 4×4.

Once fishermen arrive safely at the creek, the fun finally begins.  If you’re skilled at casting your rod and the fishing is good, 50 or more fish per day is not an unusual result.  Of course, as with fishing on the North Tongue, the majority of anglers who fish Devil’s Canyon practice catch and release–not by regulation or ethics, but because they don’t wish to haul any more weight than necessary on the gut-wrenching hike out.

While fishing the canyon, it is impossible not to stop frequently just to marvel at the canyon walls and sheer beauty of the landscape.  The green vegetation along the stream contrasts perfectly with the red, pink, and white limestone of the canyon, which in turn, contrasts with the narrow sliver of blue sky, seen in the gap between the canyon walls above.  Only the hand of God could create such a wondrous playground.

Fishing the stream is challenging; overhanging brush collects lures and flies as the price of passage, much like the ferryman of Hades collected coins from those hoping to cross the river Styx.  Smart fishermen will also keep a sharp eye out for rattlers while picking their way over boulders and through brush along the creek.  Bear sign is commonly found along the stream in the canyon, as hungry bruins frequently travel the creek in search of berries and other food.

A number of years ago, a friend was surprised to hear the bawling of a bear cub nearby as he fished the stream.  Unable to identify the source of the sound, he continued to fish.  He soon snagged his lure in an overhanging tree on the far side of the creek.  As he stretch up to retrieve his lure, he finally noticed the bawling cub, high in the tree, directly above him.  Another lure sacrificed to the ferryman of Hades.

Not that these complications aren’t worth it.  Enormous brown trout have made Devil’s Canyon their home for generations.  Spawning lunkers migrate upstream from Big Horn Lake, finding safety in the deep holes of the canyon stream.  A number of anglers over the years have landed 10 -12 pound trout in the canyon, and 25+” browns are not uncommon.  Anglers who crack the code to landing these monsters can testify of their existence and rumors abound of even bigger ones that got away.

Part of the beauty of the canyon is the isolation from civilization.  Most of this canyon appears today just as it looked 100, 200, or 500 years ago.  There are no private lodges, established trails, or safety railing along the stream.  When you enter the canyon, you’re on your own.  Some of the less popular trails might go weeks between human visitors.  Even the more popular trails rarely see fisherman more than once a week.

Word of mouth travels fast in nearby communities, and anglers planning a visit to the canyon, upon hearing that someone else recently used a certain trail, more often than not will use a different trail so as not to waste time on an area that’s “fished out.”

Not that the canyon will ever be fished out.  Nearly all Big Horn Mountain streams, while not well known among most avid fisherman, are a tremendous natural resource and hold far more trout than one can imagine.  What the fish lack in size, they make up for in numbers and provide hours of fun for kids and adults alike, all trying to land the big one.  For those who know the mountain and its secrets, there will always be a chance to catch just such a monster.

The trick is getting someone to take you there.  Don’t be surprised to find locals clam up when an outsider asks for directions to “The Canyon.”  Or you may be directed to pass over Giffy Butte, through Nunya Canyon, and just past the Screw U Ranch to get there.

Regardless of how you get there, if and when you do finally reach the stream, know that you’re on sacred ground and treat it with the respect it deserves.